Devil’s Font at Victoria Falls
Today’s final push is a course to Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe-Zambia border In the morning we leave our lodge and after stopping at Kasana airport, we head towards the Botswana-Zimbabwe border.
Before the trip Dima told us about some kind of ferry across the Zambezi River, but no way in hell there is no ferry. Everything is by land. And the border is by land.
You drive up to the checkpoint and walk to the Botswana Immigration Office. There you get an exit stamp in your passport. Then you drive 200 meters and go to the Zimbabwean immigration office. There you pay 45 bucks for the visa and your passport is stamped with a Zimbabwean visa for two entries (you need two entries to visit a waterfall on the Zambian side).
Car insurance is issued for the car. I do not remember the cost of insurance. That’s all. All passport and visa procedures take about 15 minutes. And here we are in Zimbabwe, the former Southern Rhodesia. Land of super billionaires.
The country with the previously highest inflation rate. Realizing that they are not a boom-boom economy, the Negroes made the right decision – made the national currency the American dollar. Now the last 14 zeros (that’s 100,000,000,000,000 One Hundred Trillion Dollars) is being sold as a nice souvenir because they can’t make normal souvenir products here.
You can buy one of the most high-null pieces of paper for one dollar. Smaller denominations like 100, 200 million can be bought in bulk for a couple of dollars.
We stopped at the same place where Yuri, who had visited the place a month before us, was staying. Victoria Folls Rest Camp is called. The cabin for four people cost $55. After seeing it, I took the keys to the jeep and went to look at other places to stay. The other places were even sadder. So, we had a cabin consisting of two rooms. Each room had 3 beds made with soldier blankets and one outlet. That was it.
I forgot there was a rusty fridge with an ice cube inside. The toilet and shower were public, outside.
I recommend Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in these parts – it is cheaper than Victoria Falls Safari Suites but good quality and good service. I can’t recommend the place we stayed – it was a dump.
I had wifi internet on the property. You will need to buy a card at the restaurant to log in. For 6 dollars you have unlimited traffic 100M. The day before I decided not to continue the race in Zimbabwe, and bought a plane ticket and flew from Livingstone (Zambia) to Johannesburg by air.
1600km in a day and a half? – No, I was tired of the race. So when I realized we were staying here all the same, I got on the internet to buy a ticket. Meanwhile the sky was getting darker. The wind picked up. Thunder rumbled and it rained.
The chief offered to go to the Devil’s Pool, but no one kept him company. I just wanted to relax and wander the streets of this Zimbabwean town, Victoria Falls. While it was still raining, after I took a shower I offered Valera to do a photo shoot “Miners everyday life in Zimbabwe” This photo shoot cheered us up and even gave us some energy. Then the sun came out and we went to get to know the city and its inhabitants.
The population of the city is divided into two categories: – The first category is trying to sell you Zimbabwean money as souvenirs. – The second category is not trying to sell you Zimbabwean money as souvenirs.
The location of our campsite wasn’t bad: there were several stores and wine and vodka within walking distance, a tourist office where you could book a trip to Zambia to Devil’s font, a trip to Chobe Park, etc., including a motor-delta glider or helicopter flight over Victoria Falls.
It’s a 15-minute walk or $3 cab ride to the park itself, which overlooks Victoria Falls, which tumbles down from over 100 meters high. You have to haggle with the cab. The initial price is $10. You start haggling at 1 buck and gradually go up and eventually you get 3 bucks. In Zimbabwe, you have to haggle everywhere.
After wandering around the main street of Victoria Falls – Livingston Street (what else can you call a street here?) and visiting the wine and water, we bought a few stacks of billion-dollar bills and decided to go see the famous Bunggy Jump.
As we were – without documents – we went on foot. At the border we were asked: – Where are you guys going? – To bungee jump – And the passports? – We left them at home (I mean in the camp). They stamped us on a piece of paper and we went through the gate into neutral territory, giving this piece of paper to the sentry.
The bungee is on a bridge over the Zambezi River, in neutral territory. It seems to be 80 meters high, but I dared not jump from it:
- First of all, after the Juarez one, it looked a bit dirty.
- Secondly, there were a lot of torn rubber bands sticking out of the rubber harness.
- Thirdly, it was serviced by some black bums who were selling ashtrays and I thought:
- “I refused to buy this shit from one of your guys – they’ll “forget” to fasten the carbine to my leg.
My other companions also had no enthusiasm for the place. On the way back I had to tell one of the souvenir sellers how hard my life in Russia is. How little money I have. I had just enough to eat and drink Very annoying salespeople.
It’s depressing in the evening. At the door of the Hunters club, the only club I’ve ever been to, the ladies are crowded with AIDS carriers. The club is gloomy inside, there are black people with beers, and, not surprisingly, you’ll be offered an ashtray. In the evening at our campsite, people sit in the restaurant, talking or playing pool. Although I’m sorry about that – as much as I saw playing – it was black people, and there was only one table.
In the morning went to the reception and changed our caravan shed with four windows and one outlet on a more comfortable house. The previous one cost us $56 all. The current one, with 2 bedrooms with fans, living room, kitchen, and toilet with tub cost $74.
But the game was worth the candle, despite the fact that the bathroom was not a shower – that is supposed to take exactly the bath, which is strongly not wanting, looking at the bath itself, and the surrounding rusty plumbing and enamel coating. The kitchen is one name, but there was as much as two outlets … So by local standards, we went to live in a suite, and besides for the money available.
After moving our stuff to our new place, we went to the park to see Victoria Falls. Admission to the park costs $20 for non-residents and $5 for locals. I tried to pass for a local, but was detected by security. Now, in the South African spring (November), the waterfall is low-water, but still water dust pours from the trees like a good tropical downpour. Something to photograph, right? Well, yes, photographed something, and Valera so just hammered on it, thoughtfully looking at the water spray.
The waterfall itself didn’t make any impression on me, if you compare what you’ve seen in South America (Iguazu and Salto Angel).
In the case of Victoria, it’s trivial. You are on the same level as the point of water fall on the opposite, Zambian side. Well, yes, you see that a few meters from you cliff, abyss. By the way, I note that in some places it is not fenced with anything: step down, I don’t want to.
The Devil’s Pool.
It would be so sad if we didn’t have Devil’s Fonts on the Zambian side of Livingstone Island. This attraction opened recently, this year. At least their review book is from this year. It only works in low water season, when part of the gorge wall is dry, hence the Zambezi River is not as full as in the wet season. The tour bureau offers this activism for $125. You can do cheaper, but most importantly – with the unofficial option, you can jump into the devil’s mouth unlimited number of times and consume unlimited alcohol or tea in a tent – whatever you like.
But first, let me tell you about the legal package. You pay $125 at the Victoria Falls tour office. They put you in a cab and take you to the border. Then you go through passport control and get a Zimbabwe exit stamp in your passport. Emphasize that you will need a double-entry Zimbabwean visa to visit Zambia, at a minimum. In neutral territory, another Zambian cab picks you up. It takes you to the Zambian checkpoint. There you can buy a day visa for Zambia (for RF citizens) for $20. Then you will take a cab 2 km far from the border and on your left you will see a respectable Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara.
The hotel with beautiful grounds and Russian-speaking staff. Everything is fucking great and everything is very expensive. You are escorted and placed at the bar, where you can buy a gin and tonic for $7 or a bottle of beer for $5 (for example, at our camping restaurant, a bottle of beer cost $1) After a while, while the group gathers, your guide comes over and invites you to go to the river bank, to the boat. The motorboat goes down the Zambezi toward the waterfall and docks at Livingstone island.
However, during low water it is not an island. It’s land, and that’s the whole focus of the unofficial visit to the event. Then you are escorted to the precipice and given the opportunity to be photographed against the background falling from a height of one hundred meters of turbulent foamy stream.
After that you are led to the river along the cliff. This branch of the Zambezi River has a current, but it is not as swift as in the center. But for your safety and peace of mind, a rope is strung across the river stream. From one bank, to the other. You have to swim after the guide, first against the stream, then downstream. If you have ever been on the mountain river or struggled with the stream in the sea, you know what I mean. After that, you are led to the Devil’s Pool and shown with a finger the place where you must jump. In the center of the font, between two fast jets of water that fall rumbling down after a moment, is a kind of calm area, like a pool.
The moment of the jump is photographed by a special person who is entrusted with the camera. Another person stands on the edge of the cliff and makes sure you don’t get washed down, because there’s a fast stream about a meter away.
When you are sitting in the Jacuzzi and you realize that there is a hundred meter chasm half a meter from your asshole where tons of water is rushing away, of course you are thrilled and adrenalin. Holding his hands on the rocks sitting in the warm water and your feet nibbling fish making peeling. It’s good that they only pinch your feet and not something else…
The guide suggests that I swim to the place I was jumping from. I started to swim as hard as I could, but the water washed me back to the abyss. It was like being on a jogging path at the local athletic club… After I had sat there and taken a good picture and got a lot of positive emotions and adrenaline, I had to get out of the baptismal font. You are pulled out of the pool with a rope – it is unreal to swim out. They threw the end, you cling to it as much as you can and you are pulled to the shore.
Then you swim back to the island and further to the tent. Here you can have any alcohol free and unlimited. If you don’t drink, they pour you some tea. White tent, chairs in white covers, delicious canapés with pâté and cheese. Life is beautiful and all the hardships of this long journey through South Africa are behind us. It’s all fucked up.
Now how to save money:
The cost of this activity can be brought to: 50 (in person to guide)+ 20 round trip cab + 20 Zambia visa for a day visit. Get out of the cab on the Zambian side after about 1.5 km from the border, after the gate of Victoria Falls Park (to Hotel Livingstone) and walk to Livingstone Island. But this is only possible when the water is low, as everything is flooded when the water is high.
The main advantage of this trip is that you have the opportunity for UNLIMITED bathing, diving in the devil’s pool, and consuming delicious canapés and alcohol in the marquee. Those who show up officially (by paying $125 at the register) from the hotel are forced to be limited to one dip and one visit to the marquee, and are also put on a time limit.
I enjoyed this very much. And I consider it one of the highlights of the trip that I will remember along with bungee jumping, cross-country safaris in the Okavango and Chobe region, and an overnight stay in the Kalahari Desert. The day was winding down and the suitcase mood was setting in.
Devil’s font, Victoria Falls. Livingstone Zambia
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Devil’s font, Victoria Falls. Livingstone Zambia
Vinsky ” 19 Jul 2016, 17:26
I got lost in my 2009 African report about the attraction at Victoria Falls (Zambia side): Devils Pool Victoria Falls Also called “Devil’s Pool”, “Devil’s Bath”, Devil’s Bath. But the search is looking for some reason as the Devil’s Pool OK – let it be the Devil’s Pool This attraction works in the fall – at this time the Zambezi River dries up slightly and the water pressure is such that part of the Victoria Falls dries up From September to November those who go to see Victoria Falls – can amuse themselves after a dull spectacle swimming in the Devil’s Pool A story from the perspective of a tourist who lived on the side of Zimbabwe
Devil’s Pool 2009
The Devil’s Pool is located near Livingston Island on the Zambezi River. This attraction opened recently, this year. At least their review book is from this year. It only works in low water season, when part of the gorge wall is dry, hence the Zambezi River is not as full as in the wet season. The tour bureau offers this activism for $125. You can do it cheaper, but most importantly, with the unofficial option, you can jump in the damn pool unlimited times and have unlimited booze or chug tea in a tent on the shore.
The legal package: you pay $125 at the tour office in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. They put you in a cab and drive you to the border. Then passport control and get a Zimbabwe exit stamp in your passport. Please note: you will need a double entry Zimbabwean visa to visit Zambia.
A Zambian cab picks you up in the neutral territory between the two countries and takes you to the checkpoint. There you can buy a day visa for Zambia (for Russian citizens) for $20. Then the same cab takes you 2 km from the border to the respectable Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara.
The hotel with beautiful grounds and Russian-speaking staff. Everything is fucking great and everything is very expensive. They put you in a bar where you can buy a gin and tonic for $7 or a bottle of beer for $5 (for example, in a Zimbabwean campsite a bottle of beer costs $1) After a while, while the group is gathering, your guide comes to you and invites you to go to the river bank, to the boat. The motorboat travels along the Zambezi toward the waterfall and docks at Livingstone island.
However, during low water it is not an island. It’s land, and that’s the trick of the second option of visiting the Devil’s Fountain. While this and that, they drive you along the precipice of Victoria Falls and give you the opportunity to be photographed against the background of the falling from a hundred meters high rough foamy stream.
After that, you go to the river. There is a current in this branch of the Zambezi River, but it is not as swift as in the center. But for your safety and peace of mind, a rope is strung across the river stream. From one bank, to the other. You have to swim after the guide, first against the stream, then downstream. If you have ever swum over the mountain river or struggled with the stream in the sea, you know what I mean. After that, you are led to the Devil’s Pool and shown with a finger the place where you must jump. In the center of the font, between two fast jets of water, which in a moment fall with a crash down, there is a kind of calm area, sort of means a whirlpool.
The moment of the jump is photographed by a special person entrusted with a camera. Another person stands on the edge of the cliff and makes sure you don’t get washed down, because there’s a fast stream about a meter away. When you are sitting in the Jacuzzi and you realize that there is a hundred meter chasm half a meter from your asshole where tons of water is rushing down, of course you are thrilled and adrenalin. Holding his hands on the rocks sitting in the warm water and your feet nibbling fish making peeling. It’s good that they only pinch your feet, not something else.
The guide suggests that you swim to the place from which you jumped. You start to swim as hard as you can, but the water takes you back to the abyss. After staying there and taking pictures, as well as getting a lot of positive emotions and adrenaline, you have to get out. You are pulled out of the font with a rope – it is unreal to swim out. They throw the end, you cling to it as much as you can and you are pulled to the shore.
Then swim back to the island and then to the tent to rest. Here you can drink any alcoholic beverages of the world’s brands for free and unlimited. If you don’t drink, they pour tea. White tent, armchairs in white covers, delicious canapés with pâté and cheese – everything is like in the old England. Life is beautiful and all the hardships of this long trip through South Africa are behind us.
The cost of this attraction can be brought to $90: $50 (in person to the guide) + 20 round-trip cab + 20 Zambian visa for a day visit. You must get out of the cab on the Zambian side after driving about a kilometer from the border, after the Victoria Falls park gate (before the Livingston Hotel) and walk to Livingston Island. But this is only possible when the water is low, as everything is flooded when the water is high.
The main advantage of this trip is that you have UNLIMITED opportunities to swim, dive in the devil’s pool, and consume booze and canapés in the marquee. Those who show up officially (by paying $125 to the box office) from the hotel are forced to limit themselves to one dive and one visit to the marquee, and are also put in a time limit.
Now with the manifestation of quadcopters and GoPro photo chronicle of visiting the Devil’s Fonts will be very unusual and beautiful
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